no reservations? dine at the bar!
July 12th, 2007
Sometimes a meal at a nice restaurant is planned. You may make reservations a week ahead of time, think about the dinner for a few days and even peruse the menu a bit before leaving the house for the big event. Then there are some weekend evenings where dining out is a spur of the moment idea and the thought of going out without reservations is out of the question. However, if you are flexible, I’d bet that you and a companion can dine at almost any Tampa Bay establishment on a weekend evening with no more than a ten minute wait. How? By dining at the bar.
As a single guy, I spent quite a bit of time dining at the bar in restaurants. It never bothered me, since I probably knew the bartender and I sure didn’t enjoy sitting by myself at a table made for four. But now, I find my experience as a bar diner comes in handy when ducking into a nice restaurant without any prior planning. If you are willing to forgo a table, you’ll get quicker seating and nearly instant service, since the bartender is only steps away. Plus, you may even get that complimentary glass of wine you always hoped for. While far from a complete list, some places where dining at the bar is acceptable, even ”cool,” include, Sidebern’s, Courtside Grill, Fly Bar and Restaurant, The Lime, Ceviche in St. Petersburg and Bonefish Grill. What are your favorite spots to dine at the bar?
A couple of weeks ago on a Saturday evening, my fiancee and I were craving some Italian food from Benedetto’s. Since we didn’t have a reservation and it was a last minute decision, we figured having a bottle of wine and some appetizers at the bar was the way to go. When we arrived, the wait for a table was about 40 minutes and their small bar was crowded. But after only a few minutes and a half of a cocktail, we were seated in the corner of the cozy bar.
We began with the Benedetto’s Dip (or Ben Dip, for short, $14.95), a thick dip packed with shrimp, crabmeat, artichokes and plenty of white cheese, served with crostini. Decadent, rich and simply delicious, it’s one of our favorite appetizers. We also tried one of their specials, the stuffed mushrooms ($12.95), filled with lump crabmeat and covered with cheese. Although I am not normally a fan of mushrooms, the flavor and texture blended right in with the crabmeat and cheese. Based on the filling qualities of the previous two apps, we were only able to squeeze in one more: fried calamari ($10.95), tender and fried golden brown. It was served with a side of marinara for dipping, but calamari cooked that well only required a quick squeeze of lemon. To top it off, we paired everything with a bottle of Santa Cristina Sangiovese, affordable at only $28. There was no room for dessert during that trip.
While Benedetto’s may be one of our favorite restaurants in “the North,” we don’t always plan ahead and sometimes it is good to be spontaneous. Dining at the bar might not be for everyone, but I find it an attractive alternative for those who decide at the last minute that they want good food but don’t want the hassle of a 45 minute wait for a regular table. Next time you are faced with a long wait at your favorite restaurant, give the bar a chance.
Benedetto’s Ristorante Italiano
21529 Village Lakes Shopping Center
Land O’ Lakes, Fl. 34639
813-909-9694
www.benedettoitaliano.com
Crab Shack - Local Seafood with Character
June 9th, 2007
It only took me a year and half, but this weekend I finally found something I longed for in Tampa: a good seafood restaurant. Sure there are great restaurants in the bay areas serving seafood, but I’m not talking about a fine dining restaurant serving a $27 entree of fresh imported fish with a fancy sauce. I’m talking about a seafood restaurant for those of us that grew up and live on the coast of the Gulf of Mexico. You know, the kind place with raw oysters served on the half shell, seafood platters, steamed blue crabs and cold beer to wash it down. On Saturday afternoon I found it all during an early dinner at the Crab Shack Restaurant in St. Petersburg.
My girlfriend and I spent most of the day at the beach and on the way home I realized I was in the mood for seafood. Besides, there isn’t a better way to follow up a hot day at the beach than with ice-cold raw oysters. My friend Joe raved about the Crab Shack last week, singling out the taste and freshness of the Apalachicola oysters. After a quick stop at home and a little more Internet research, I decided that it was time for a try.
Located on the Pinellas side of Gandy, Crab Shack Restaurant is a local favorite. With only about 15 tables, the place fills up fast and always seems to have a wait. The building is small, with low ceilings and has the character of a run down seafood joint on the water; exactly what I expected. The clientele is unpretentious too; a mix of families, bikers and young couples alongside the gray haired lady sitting at the bar nursing her carafe of white zinfandel. It’s definitely not a tourist destination.
We started out our meal on Saturday with a dozen cold raw oysters on the half shell ($8.95) that turned out to be some of the best I’ve had in the bay area; salty and fresh. Although I never eat dinner at five o’clock in the afternoon, we were lucky this time to have stumbled upon happy hour, which runs 4-6 pm Monday through Saturday and allowed me the to enjoy two for one draft beer and oysters for only $6.95 a dozen.
The menu is diverse and reads like a typical seafood joint: fried fish, oysters and shrimp, steamed blue crabs and they requisite seafood platter. After eating them raw for an appetizer, I decided I would continue and order the Fried Oyster Plate ($12.95), which I enjoyed with French fries and homemade cole slaw. The oysters were fried perfect and packed with flavor – I loved every bite. My girlfriend decided on the Stuffed Shack Fish ($13.95), a large piece of cod filled with a blue crab stuffing then broiled. The fish was excellent, but I have to admit that almost anything would be good if you stuffed it with crabmeat and broiled it with a heap of butter. Unfortunately we were about to hit another happy hour down the street so we didn’t indulge in any dessert, unless you count my two-for-one beers.
Dining at Crab Shack restaurant was a winner and I consider it a victory in my search for reasonably priced, down to earth seafood. It’s my kind of place and will definitely be back soon. The menu has something for everyone and is one of the few places in town I have seen steamed blue crabs as well as fried softshell crabs. Check out the Crab Shack website to peruse the menu and even print out a coupon for a free drink! The prices are reasonable, the food is good and the restaurant has character. When you are in the mood for seafood, be sure to avoid that “Joe’s” place and try out the REAL Crab Shack Restaurant.
Crab Shack Restaurant
11400 Gandy Blvd
St. Petersburg, Florida
(727) 576-7813
http://www.crabshack.com/index.htm
Fly Bar and Restaurant opened with a bang last year to crowds of people eager to try the new trendy place that was a pioneer in an otherwise desolate neighborhood in downtown Tampa. Proprietor Leslie Shirah, opened Fly in Tampa after successfully opening and running a similar concept in San Francisco. She figured that the same type of upscale yet cultured establishment in the Tampa Bay area would prove to be a great idea; I agree. I waited until just a few weeks ago to give the place a try, if only to avoid the “trendy” and “see and be seen” crowds that flock to every new hot establishment in town. What I found was a restaurant and bar with open space, interesting architecture with exposed brick, original artwork and an innovative menu that turns its back on the boring chain restaurant menus across the Tampa Bay.
The drinks are decent and the bartenders are competent. For those caught up in the fruity martini craze, there’s a list of signature cocktails (all $9), including the popular mango or raspberry flavored mojitos. The wine list is compact, but offers an adequate variety of red and white, with bottles beginning in the $30 range. The glasses of wine are a bit overpriced; I was disappointed by an $8 glass of house cab that I had recently while sitting at the bar. For those who want to get some fresh air or a good view of some new condo developments downtown, a rooftop bar makes for a good getaway to drink or smoke. The menu is designed to encourage couples or groups to share, take their time eating and to enjoy the experience. Although the menu consists of “share” (appetizers) and “plates” (complete meals) sections, the portions are small as to allow the experience of multiple dishes. It’s another variation on the tapas type concept, though Fly doesn’t use the word “tapas” on the menu. Another unique feature is a late night menu that is served after eleven o’clock every night; a godsend for the Tampa area given the limited late night dining choices.
Appearing on the regular and late night menu, one of the dishes to make headlines was the Kobe Beef Sliders, three miniature burgers lined up on a rectangular plate, topped with gruyere cheese and Cabernet Onions. I tried them on my first visit and realized that they were almost the perfect
bar food; full of flavor and easy to eat with a glass of red wine. But at $13, I now view them as an over-priced burger. The prices of each item at first glance seem reasonable, but given the portion size and the number of dishes required to equal an entrée at a typical restaurant, the tab can add up fast. A dinner for two with a bottle of wine can easily reach the $100 range, while a cocktail and snacks at the bar will run you $30 to $40.
On a recent visit we were able to try a couple of dishes from the seasonal specials, which change frequently. If the menu has changed by the time you visit Fly, do yourself a favor and take a risk; the kitchen has talent. The Chipotle Soy Marinated Skirt Steak ($12) tasted exactly as I anticipated, a little salty and a little smoky. The marinade complemented the flavor of the meat and it paired well with the corn and tomato salsa served as an accompaniment. Since I tend to like bold southwest flavors, I really enjoyed the dish. Also from the specials menu we tried the Sautéed Mussels ($13); a decent sized bowl of plump, juicy, perfectly cooked mussels, swimming in lemon herb butter, garnished with fennel. I couldn’t ask for better cooked mussels, but the sauce lacked a distinctive flavor. It was a rather mild butter sauce with hints of herbs but fortunately was not overpowered by the pungent taste of fennel. Since mussels have such a mild flavor, a really good sauce can highlight the taste and I always like a flavorful sauce left over to sop up with my bread or frites.
Speaking of frites, Fly has some of the best around. No, they’re not on par with French Bistro standards, but they’re perfectly cooked and well seasoned. The Frites Two Ways ($9) appears on the regular menu as well as the late night menu and is a perfect way to mop up the leftover sauces from your empty plates or absorb the alcohol in your system after a night of drinking. The large plate is split in half with a duo of Idaho/Truffle Butter and Fresh Herb Frites paired with cayenne ketchup and less common Sweet Potato Frites with a Jalapeno Watercress Aioli. The first time I tried the frites was late on a Friday night after happy hour and they were an excellent way to finish the evening. The second time was during a regular dinner because, well, you can’t have mussels without frites, right? I was thoroughly impressed and they are now some of my favorite around. Beware, the portion is large and they are meant for sharing.
It may sound as if I am gushing over the menu, but not every dish was outstanding. The Crab and Lobster Cakes ($13) didn’t blow me away. In fact, most of the punch came from the Chipotle Chili Cream sauce that they sat atop. It was a tad spicy and overpowered the mild seafood flavor of the cakes, but without the sauce, there wasn’t anything distinct about the dish. To be fair, lobster is a mild flavor and takes a second seat when paired with crab. I was also excited to order the Tumeric Spiced Lamb ($14), only to be let down by several tough slices of lamb that were overpowered and swimming in a White Bean Ragout that was heavy on flavor of chili powder. The lamb was cooked medium rare, but the flavor just didn’t impress. I had heard my friend Darryl say that the lamb at Fly was one of the best he’d ever had, but I could have caught the chef on a bad night, or he might have had the previous incarnation of the dish.
It may have taken me a while to give Fly a chance, but I’m glad I did. Tampa has a void of original places that needs to be filled and Fly Bar and Restaurant succeeds. As I was, you may be hesitant to check out the “new” place downtown, but after more than six months, Fly seems to have hit its stride. The crowds are now manageable, the menu is refined and the atmosphere is still charming. I can’t be sure of the future of downtown Tampa, but regardless, I’ll still make the short pilgrimage to drink and dine at Fly. I suggest you check it out too.
Fly Bar and Restaurant
1202 N Franklin St
Tampa, FL 33602
(813) 275-5000
http://www.flybarandrestaurant.com/tampa/
Dine Out for Less: “Eats” and “Bites” from the Weekly Planet
August 4th, 2006
If you don’t read The Weekly Planet, you may not even be aware of a couple great discount programs for dining out. The Eats and Bites programs offer certificates to certain restaurants for half of the face value. For instance, with “Eats,” you can get a $50 certificate for a meal and only pay $25. The “Bites” program features lower priced options and sells $30 certificates for only $15. If you want to try a restaurant but are hesitant because of the cost, check out this program. One thing to remember, this is not a gift certificate, so if you don’t use the entire value of the certificate, you won’t get change. Do yourself a favor, go to the site, save yourself some money and try a new local restaurant!
Hugo’s Roast Pork Sandwich: Good Food, Fast
July 31st, 2006
After a pretty good workout on a recent Saturday followed by a less than fulfilling protein shake, I began to hear my stomach growl at about 11 am. There was not a lot of food in the house, so I was relegated to selecting a suitable snack that could tide me over until later in the afternoon. Though fast food seems to be the default choice when looking around for a quick bite, the fast-food restaurant as we know it has only been around for several decades. People have always had the need for food, so before there was fast food, there was good food, fast. That’s what I found at Hugo’s Spanish Restaurant.
Hugo’s has been in Hyde Park since 1975, and though I’ve only been in the neighborhood for about six months, I’ve passed their location on Howard Avenue on almost a daily basis. On my walk this particular day, I passed several fast food options like Evo’s and Panera bread, but I figured the best food was going to be at the local place. I had already decided on a roast pork sandwich, so I ordered immediately after walking in the door at Hugo’s. The only question that threw me for a loop was “all the way?” which questioned whether I would like my sandwich with mayo, mustard, pickle lettuce and tomato. I skipped the lettuce and tomato and went with the rest. After only five minutes of waiting and $5.30 later I was on my way home. My sandwich was pretty good, toasted Cuban bread packed with thick sliced roasted pork, pickles and the right amount of mayo. The mustard was a little overpowering, so next time I’ll ask for less. The sandwich was similar in style to the couchon de lait po’ boy, one of the more popular items at the New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival, though the Cajun version features pork that has been pulled apart and shredded, topped with cabbage and mayo. I thoroughly enjoyed the local Tampa version and will have a hard time ordering a Cuban sandwich when roasted pork appears on the menu (as it should in any Cuban eatery).
When you get hungry and are driving around looking for a place to eat, do yourself a favor and pass up the McDonalds or KFC and look for a restaurant that will serve you real food, that they prepared. Places like Hugo’s CAN serve good food, and fast. There are many options out there and even though it takes a little extra effort, your taste buds will thank you.
Hugo’s Spanish Restaurant
931 S Howard Ave
Tampa, FL 33606-2418
813-251-2842
One morning earlier this week I sat down for a breakfast interview with Mario Diaz of Channel 10 news. We talked about my thoughts on evacuating New Orleans during Hurricane Katrina, my food writing and my newfound love for Tampa Bay. He also asked me about the best meal I had eaten in Tampa and without hesitation, I responded “Ceviche.” During that interview I told the complete truth, but if was asked the same question today, the answer would be different. Last night I dined at Benedetto’s Ristorante Italiano and it was by far the best meal I’ve had at a restaurant in the Tampa Bay area.
True to my upbringing, we arrived at the restaurant early to catch a drink at the bar. Cozy and cluttered with Rat Pack memorabilia, the small bar was inviting. Segregated from the restaurant, it gave me the feel of a real bar where I could get a real cocktail, so I had a martini. I didn’t ask for a “martini” menu, I wanted a REAL martini, gin with a touch of vermouth, shaken and served in an ice-cold cocktail glass with olives. The art of bartending seems to be dying, but even in Land O’ Lakes, I found a martini that was made right. I also watched closely as the bartender made my girlfriend’s cosmopolitan, as well as several other drinks that were sent to the dining room; they were all done well. After chatting with the bartender and waitstaff about the food at Benedetto’s and recommendations on our evening, we were ready for the main event.
We were seated in the first dining room at a nice table out of the way of foot traffic, but in full view of the piano playing lounge singer. It reminded me of the New York Lounge singer of the 70’s only now found in cheesy movies, but I couldn’t help but to like it. Perhaps it is a throwback to old-school times when the music WAS cool. I believe it still is. The wine list is adequate and loaded with a blend of old world and new world selections; we chose a reasonably priced Chianti to pair with the Italian style food. The complementary basket of bread began the makings of a great meal, soft, warm bread topped with garlic butter and cheese; absolutely delicious. We also began with an appetizer of the Benedetto Dip, a shallow bowl of cream and cheese filled with crab, scallops and shrimp served with toasted crustini’s. Though outstanding, it was very rich, and in anticipation of our meal, we purposely left part of it for later. The salads that preceded the entrees were also good, dressed with the house dressing, a home-made vinaigrette.
When the entrees arrived, I knew I had discovered a new favorite. I wish I could have seen the look on my face during my first bite of the Grouper Bianco; I couldn’t help but to exclaim, “this is how food is supposed to taste!” The pan fried grouper was cooked perfect on the inside and was protected by a crispy, light breading, then topped with a creamy sauce with crabmeat, sea scallops and jumbo shrimp that tasted as though they were caught that morning. It was absolutely exquisite and equally as decadent. For a side dish, we chose the penne pasta with a pink sauce that ended up fairly pedestrian, especially sitting next to the grouper. The best bet would have been to have it served over the angel hair pasta. We also tried one of the specials, a crabmeat stuffed Florida halibut topped with a champagne cream sauce. The fish was cooked until tender and flaky, and the light flavor of the fish allowed for the taste of crabmeat to shine. The cream sauce was perfect, just the right consistency to blend well with my side dish of angel hair pasta. Neither one of these selections were on the menu, but were both suggested by the staff.
For those less adventurous souls seeking good but simple Italian favorites, you are also in luck. There is an extensive selection of entrees including an excellent baked ziti and tasty lasagna. The prices for the basics are very reasonable, in the range of $12 to $15 per entree. However, the specialty seafood dishes and evening specials can find you in the neighborhood of $30, well worth every penny. If you are unsure what to order from the vast menu, your best bet is to ask your waiter. If you listen to your server at Johnny Carino’s, he or she is likely pushing the daily specials suggested by management. At Benedetto’s, the staff actually eats the food, and they love it. While at the bar before dinner, we were actually able to get some great suggestions from the bartender as well as some waiters passing by. They all seem happy to be there, and that’s a sign of a good restaurant.
We finished up our evening with an order of the homemade tiramisu. From the dessert tray, about half of the selections were made in house, and we definitely went the right way with our choice. Rich, creamy and sweet, it was the perfect end to a perfect meal. Fortunately we packaged up a decent portion of our meal (half the appetizer and most of the side pasta) in anticipation of dessert. Make sure not to fill up during the meal, you won’t want to miss the ending. To some people in South Tampa, Land O’ Lakes seems like the other side of the world, but the food there is worth the drive. If I could only have one last meal in Tampa Bay, it would be the Grouper Bianco from Benedetto’s Ristorante Italiano.
Benedetto’s Ristorante Italiano
21529 Village Lakes Shopping Center
Land O’ Lakes, Fl. 34639
813-909-9694
www.benedettoitaliano.com
A couple of weeks ago I met some friends for dinner at the soft opening of Chipotle on Howard Avenue just to revisit the food and get acquainted with my new neighbor. Although there are a couple other locations in the Tampa Bay area, the growing popularity of burrito joints leads me to predict a Chipotle in every neighborhood. So if you are still in the dark about the place, here is the lowdown. The atmosphere of the restaurant is clean and industrial with lots of granite and chrome. The food is served cafeteria style in a manner popularized by Subway; sort of a build your own burrito bar. The menu is simple; your choice of ingredients that can be made into soft tacos, hard tacos, burritos or my friend Linda’s favorite: the Burrito Bol, all of the ingredients of a burrito in a bowl, sans the tortilla. The meats include chicken, steak, carnitas and barbacoa, a spicy shredded beef in a chipotle adobo sauce. For the vegetarians, all of the items can be made without the meat. After picking the meat, you can select rice, pinto or black beans and your choice of salsas to complete your creation. To round out the meal, you can get salsa or guacamole with chips, and even an ice-cold beer.
My steak burrito turned out pretty good, stuffed with rice, black beans and spicy salsa. The one ingredient that turned me off was the cilantro Jasmine-style rice used for the burrito. The sticky rice had a bland flavor and only served as a filler for the medium sized burrito; next time I’ll skip it. For a chain restaurant, the salsas are pretty good, but I found the chips to be a bit thick for my taste. The Tomatillo-Green (Medium) chili salsa was my favorite, just the right amount of heat. The Tomatillo-Red (HOT) salsa reminded me of a chile pepper puree and the excruciating heat contributed to my excess consumption of tortilla chips to cool my flaming tongue. The size of the burrito was just right, but bordered on excess when factoring in a bag of chips and a side of their surprisingly good guacamole. While it may be a bit pricey for fast food, my burrito with chips and salsa and one Corona ended up at about $11; not too bad for a meal with friends.
Back in the day, Chipotle was a lone burrito stand that caught the eye of the McDonalds Corporation, and the rest is history. They have a winning formula for success: clean restaurants, consistent food and a cuisine that is growing in popularity. Unfortunately that lone burrito stand called Chipotle has lost all of its character and is now a corporate cash cow. I really do enjoy Chipotle and appreciate the fact that they do provide consistently good food, but the opening of the Howard avenue location caddy-corner from an existing burrito place has me worried about the viability of the local guy. You heard it here first, this is the beginning of the “SoHo Burrito Wars.”
Unfortunately for me, it took several months living in SoHo before stepping foot into Taqueria Cantina & Burrito Joint (formerly named Taqueria Quetzalcoatl). My room-mate mentioned that he disliked the food there, but it turns out he just had a bad meal there four years back, at a different location! On a Saturday afternoon recently, I was craving a good fish taco and several recommendations from Chowhound led me to an oasis of great Cali-Mex food right in my backyard. The recommendations were warranted, and I enjoyed an outstanding baja fish taco in a flour tortilla filled with crispy fried cod, Mexi-Slaw and mango sour cream. One fish taco paired with an order of their chips and salsa was more than filling for an big eater (me).
With the anticipation of the opening of Chipotle, I paid another visit to Taqueria Cantina to try out the burritos. To stay on a level playing field, I chose a “regular” sized grilled steak burrito, stuffed with rice, salsa and black beans. Sour cream, guacamole and cheese can all be added for an additional charge, and you have a choice of black beans or pinto beans, but I was keeping it simple for my trial run. I found the end result to be outstanding; steak that was grilled to order and ingredients that worked well together. I’m also happy that I only ordered a “regular” size, instead of the “super;”it was more than I really needed to eat on a Friday evening. Last night I tried a “mini” sized steak burrito, this time with guacomole. It turns out that the mini burrito with chips and salsa was the perfect size for me; it went quite well with a Corona and lime.
Despite the recent opening of Chipotle, it appeared last night that Taqueria was doing a brisk business. When asked about the competition, Chad, behind the counter didn’t appear worried. “We’ve been here 14 years, and people will continue to come back here after they taste the food over there (Chipotle).” I have to agree. Though I generally shy away from chain restaurants, I think the food at Chipotle is above average, but the food at Taqueria Cantina & Burrito joint is better. Try them both and make your own informed decision, but I’ll continue to favor Taqueria; not because they are local, but because the food is just so damn good.
Taqueria Cantina and Burrito Joint
(formerly Taqueria Quetzalcoatl)
402 S Howard Ave
Tampa, FL 33606-2036
813-259-9982
Chipotle - South Tampa
533 S. Howard Avenue
Tampa, FL 33606
813-254-6450
www.Chipotle.com
Gourmet Pizza Company
July 13th, 2006
There are two types of pizza: beer pizza and wine pizza. While most pies are enjoyed with an ice-cold beer, the pizza from Gourmet Pizza Company is best paired with a glass of wine. If you are from Chicago or New York the argument likely goes a little farther, but for the rest of us who just enjoy a great pizza, you can find one in South Tampa.
After a couple months of eating chain restaurant pizzas while living in Feather Sound, it was refreshing to find so many local pizzerias near my new home in South Tampa. I often enjoy a plain cheese pizza from The Deck, but the complexity and variety that comes from the creations at Gourmet Pizza Company continue to impress me. In fact, the first meal I had in my new apartment was their Classic Combo pizza. All of the ingredients seem to come together as one great meal; the crust, the sauce and the toppings.
The biggest debate I hear from pizza aficionados is about the crust. The Gourmet Pizza Company crust is not too thin and not too thick. I can’t really categorize it regionally, but it’s a favorite of my Manhattan-raised girlfriend. I love the crust, but being raised in New Orleans doesn’t make me a pizza connoisseur; it’s not exactly the pizza mecca of the world. Under the weight of many toppings, the crust in the middle of the pizza can give way, but that problem disappeared when re-heating the leftovers in the oven and firming up the crust. Though the crust is an important component in any pizza, Gourmet Pizza Company shines in its selection of toppings.
Gourmet Pizza Company has a specialty pizza for almost any taste, from regional flavors like the Thai Chicken Pizza and the Cajun Crawfish Pizza or a wide variety of meatless pizzas and the simple but great, like the Margherita, topped with mozzarella slices, fresh basil and garlic. The Chicken Smoked Gouda Pizza is a nice option for a light meal; the gouda blends well with the smoky bacon and Italian seasonings, but the slices of chicken are a bit bland. On the Chicken and Spinach White Pizza, the chicken does a good job of giving way to the flavors of the house cheese blend, roasted red peppers, garlic and spinach. My favorite however is definitely the Steak Gorganzola Pizza. The caramelized red onions, fresh mushrooms, creamy gorgonzola cheese and bold flavors of rib-eye steak on the pizza paired well with a glass of California cab; this was one pizza that was not made for beer. This particular pizza probably falls in the top ten that I’ve ever had.
In addition to pizza, you can check out entrees like meat or veggie lasagna, cheese ravioli or calzones. There are also several different salads, but after a trying a mediocre Caesar salad, I’ve decided to stick to what they do best: pizza. If you live in South Tampa, you can pick up your pizza or have it delivered to your home. Though dining in is an option and the four tables are rarely occupied, Gourmet Pizza Company lacks a liquor license, so a gourmet pizza with a nice Chianti is probably out of the question; you’ll have to settle on a soft drink. As I mentioned, the pizza re-heats really well in the oven, so even if you are traveling a distance, you’ll be fine. With the inundation of coupons in your mailbox for the national pizza chains, it may be difficult to remember the local guys. Fortunately you can log on to the Gourmet Pizza Company website and take advantage of their “internet specials.” So now, it seems you no longer have an excuse to eat mediocre pizza.
Gourmet Pizza Company
610 S. Armenia Ave. (near the corner of Swan)
Tampa,FL 33609
813-258-1999
www.gourmetpizza-company.com
Splash! An Ocean Grill
July 7th, 2006
Last night to celebrate a special occasion, we decided to try Splash! Restaurant in Lutz. There were a couple reasons for the restaurant selection; the first was a coupon for $10 off a dinner for two, but the main reason was that Splash! has the reputation for being one of the premier seafood restaurants in the Tampa Bay area. Situated in a strip shopping center next to Subway, it is probably the last place you’d think to find an upscale seafood restaurant, but this one has seemed to buck the stereotype of the normal strip mall chain restaurant. White tablecloth and all, the restaurant is cozy and elegant, with a square bar in the middle of the restaurant separating two dining rooms, the walls adorned with black and white pencil drawn caricatures, possibly of regular patrons. The kitchen in the back of the restaurant is open, and though it may be a plus for some, every word spoken by the cooks seemed to carry throughout the back of the dining room. After ten minutes in the place, I mentioned that I couldn’t believe I was in a strip shopping center.
We started with a bottle of pinot grigio from the inexpensive, basic wine list. With prices around $20 per bottle, the wine list is accessible to any diner, and a “reserve” wine list is perched on every table for the discerning wine drinker. As with any good restaurant, the appetizer list looked like the most impressive part of the menu, with selections such as Escargot, Ahi Tuna Tartare and Crispy Cottage Fries with Bleu Cheese; we decided to try the Trio of Cakes - Scallop, Crab and Ahi Tuna. Of the three, the fresh scallop risotto cake was my favorite, made with the day’s risotto of spinach, sweet pea and tomato, although I’m not really sure if there was much scallop in the cake. The crab cake was ordinary, but was complemented by a well-seasoned aioli. The ahi tuna cake was also good and had a smoky grilled flavor that would probably please some and turn off others. I enjoyed it; my girlfriend didn’t. With an emphasis on the oak grill, I was not surprised that the tuna cake would be grilled.
The entrées consisted mainly of grilled fish, and rightly so for a seafood restaurant. For the carnivores, there is a surprisingly good number of meat dishes on the menu that I suspect would be excellent on the oak grill. But since we were at a seafood restaurant, we opted for fish. Each of the fish dishes comes in an assembly line format: pick your fish, then your sauce, then your choice of side items. The process reminds me of Bonefish Grill, but I digress. We had the Mahi-Mahi, oscar style with Béarnaise sauce and lump crabmeat, as well as the Red Snapper with the Cognac Lobster Cream Sauce. Both of the pieces of fish were outstanding, cooked just right with a smoky, grilled flavor and flaky and tender enough to eat with a fork. I can’t think of another place where the fish was as fresh and cooked as well. Unfortunately that is where the complements end, as the rest of the meal was quite unimpressive. The oscar sauce was scant on crabmeat, especially for a dish that costs $23.99, and my lobster sauce didn’t contain a bit of lobster, though on second glance, the menu describes it as a “Lobster and Cognac Infused Cream Sauce.” I should have known. The side dishes were pretty ordinary; the tired garlic mashed potatoes, brown rice pilaf and sautéed veggies of the day. I was hoping for more from a top-notch restaurant. Each of the fish entrees also comes with an accompaniment of a Splash! salad or the soup of the day, which happened to be Lobster Chowda. The salad was excellent and fresh, brought to the table in a metal mixing bowl, then tossed tableside with a parmesan vinaigrette then served. The chowder was a different story. Though I am from the south and obviously not a chowder expert, I can still spot ordinary food. Again, maybe the lobster was “infused” into the chowder because I couldn’t find any amongst the chunks of potato. With the fried onion strings floating on top, it reminded me of a canned potato soup. Oh well, I wasn’t there for the chowder anyway. Unfortunately on this visit I couldn’t report on dessert, as we were stuffed after the meal, but I’ll make sure to try it next time
I’m happy I was able to try the food and the fish was about as fresh as they come, but for some reason, I just wasn’t blown away by a dinner that ventured into the neighborhood of $100. Don’t get me wrong, the fish was outstanding, but unfortunately it takes more than a fresh piece of fish and an oak fired grill to make a seafood restaurant work. But I’m not sure they need much more, as Splash! has received numerous awards and accolades in the past several years. I guess you’ll just have to try it for yourself. On my next visit, I’ll likely sit at the bar with the neighborhood regulars, enjoy a martini with blue cheese stuffed olives and sample several of the appetizers from the impressive list. While Splash! may not be on the top of my list of places to return, there’s something about the place that makes me want to try it again. When you visit, be mindful of the strengths and weaknesses of the menu and you should enjoy yourself too.
Splash! An Ocean Grill
3973 Van Dyke Road Lutz, Fl 33558
813.269.8611
www.splashanoceangrill.com